To the tomb of Peter

It was an early morning start to be at St Peter's basilica by 7.00am for an 7.15am Mass... Unfortunately there were 1000s ahead of us and it took ages to get through the bag-check meaning we well and truly missed our allocated time. Thankfully numerous others had exactly the same issue and thanks to our Italian tour co-ordinator we were able to start Mass at 8.35am in one of the chapels below the main level of the basilica... 

The site of St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City holds unparalleled significance for the Catholic Church and for Christianity as a whole. It is the burial place of St. Peter the Apostle, the first Bishop of Rome and leader of the early Church. According to ancient tradition, after his martyrdom by crucifixion under Emperor Nero around 64 AD, Peter was buried in a necropolis on the Vatican Hill. Over time, his tomb became a place of veneration for early Christians.

In the 4th century, Emperor Constantine the Great ordered the construction of a grand basilica over Peter’s tomb, marking the site as a sacred center of Christian worship. This original basilica stood for over a millennium before being replaced in the 16th century by the current St. Peter’s Basilica.

Its construction began in 1506 under Pope Julius II and was completed in 1626 during the papacy of Urban VIII. The project brought together some of the greatest artists and architects of the Renaissance and Baroque periods. Donato Bramante was the original architect, envisioning a grand central dome. After his death, the design evolved under successors including Raphael, Antonio da Sangallo the Younger, and most notably Michelangelo, who took over in 1547. Michelangelo refined the design and created the iconic dome, which remains one of the largest in the world.

Following Michelangelo, Giacomo della Porta and Domenico Fontana completed the dome in 1590. The nave and façade were later finished by Carlo Maderno, who extended the church into a Latin cross layout and added the grand façade in 1614. Gian Lorenzo Bernini contributed significantly to the interior and the surrounding St. Peter’s Square, designing the majestic baldachin over the papal altar and the sweeping colonnades.

Beneath the high altar of the present basilica lies the Confessio, a sunken area that allows pilgrims to view the believed location of St. Peter’s tomb. In 1939, during renovations in the Vatican Grottoes following the death of Pope Pius XI, workers accidentally uncovered an ancient Roman necropolis beneath the basilica. This led to a major archaeological excavation, and was spurred on by the fear that Hilter would invade the Vatican. Known as the Vatican Necropolis Excavations, these continued for over a decade. Archaeologists discovered a complex of mausoleums and a small shrine known as the Trophy of Gaius, built in the 2nd century over what was believed to be Peter’s grave. Early Christian writer Gaius had referred to this site, stating, “I can show you the trophies of the apostles,” referring to Peter and Paul.

Behind a red wall near the shrine, archaeologists found a niche containing bones wrapped in purple and gold cloth. A remarkable inscription nearby read “Petros eni”—Greek for “Peter is here.” Scientific analysis of the bones revealed they belonged to a robust man in his 60s, consistent with Peter’s age at death. In 1968, Pope Paul VI declared that the remains had been “identified in a way that we can hold to be convincing.”

This discovery reaffirmed the ancient tradition that St. Peter was buried on Vatican Hill and deepened the spiritual significance of St. Peter’s Basilica. The presence of his relics beneath the high altar, directly under Michelangelo’s great dome, symbolizes the Church’s foundation on Peter, the “rock” upon whom Christ said He would build His Church (Matthew 16:18). The words “Peter is here” continue to echo as a powerful testimony to the enduring legacy of the apostolic faith.

In St. Peter’s Square stands the ancient Vatican Obelisk, a 25-meter-high Egyptian monument brought to Rome by Emperor Caligula in 37 AD. Once standing in Nero’s Circus—where Peter was martyred—it now serves as a silent witness to the birth of Christianity. Its placement at the heart of the square, aligned with the basilica’s entrance, symbolizes the triumph of the Christian faith over paganism and the enduring legacy of the Church built upon Peter, the “rock.” 

Mass was celebrated in the Chapel of Our Lady of Czestochowa

1 Peter 5:1-4

Now I have something to tell your elders: I am an elder myself, and a witness to the sufferings of Christ, and with you I have a share in the glory that is to be revealed. Be the shepherds of the flock of God that is entrusted to you: watch over it, not simply as a duty but gladly, because God wants it; not for sordid money, but because you are eager to do it. Never be a dictator over any group that is put in your charge, but be an example that the whole flock can follow. When the chief shepherd appears, you will be given the crown of unfading glory.

The Lord is my shepherd;

there is nothing I shall want.

Fresh and green are the pastures

where he gives me repose.

Near restful waters he leads me,

to revive my drooping spirit.

He guides me along the right path;

he is true to his name.

If I should walk in the valley of darkness

no evil would I fear.

You are there with your crook and your staff;

with these you give me comfort.

You have prepared a banquet for me

in the sight of my foes.

My head you have anointed with oil;

my cup is overflowing.

Surely goodness and kindness shall follow me

all the days of my life.

In the Lord’s own house shall I dwell

for ever and ever.

Matthew 16:13-19

When Jesus came to the region of Caesarea Philippi he put this question to his disciples, ‘Who do people say the Son of Man is?’ And they said, ‘Some say he is John the Baptist, some Elijah, and others Jeremiah or one of the prophets.’ ‘But you,’ he said ‘who do you say I am?’ Then Simon Peter spoke up, ‘You are the Christ,’ he said ‘the Son of the living God.’ Jesus replied, ‘Simon son of Jonah, you are a happy man! Because it was not flesh and blood that revealed this to you but my Father in heaven. So I now say to you: You are Peter and on this rock I will build my Church. And the gates of the underworld can never hold out against it. I will give you the keys of the kingdom of heaven: whatever you bind on earth shall be considered bound in heaven; whatever you loose on earth shall be considered loosed in heaven.’

Reflection

Isn't Peter the most unlikely of candidates to be the rock on which Jesus built his Church.

He was always getting it wrong but at the same time he remained passionate in his love for Jesus.

I love the Gospel we have used today of the Mass of the Chair of Peter... ‘But you,’ Jesus said ‘who do you say I am?’ It's aa question Peter desperately wanted to get right and it's a question that will determine our relationship with Jesus too... but it is not Peter he "gets" the answer.... it was revealed by Jesus' Father in heaven. It is as if there was suddenly a burst of inspiration bursting up in Peter but a spring gushing forth. For those who travelled with me to Caesarea Philippi, this shrine of the gods, springs bursting forth with life giving water are everywhere... and Jesus is the living water gushing forth within us.

But immediately after this passage Jesus talks of his forthcoming rejection, his death and resurrection, and Peter the rock announces to Jesus this cannot happen to him. Get behind me Satan, Jesus replied, for you are thinking in a human way, not God's way. Jesus chooses the most unlikely.

We see Peter getting it wrong in the Garden of Gethsemene when he runs and then later at the High Priest's palace, when he says I don't know him, I don't know him, I tell you I don't know him despite Jesus prediction that this very thing would happen. Jesus dealt with that at the early one morning at the Sea of Galilee when the Apostle John recognised it was Jesus who had said throw out your nets for a catch. Peter hadn't twigged but being the impetuous man he was he dived into the lake and swam ashore. But there was still the issue of the three denials. Jesus solves that by simply asking, Do you love me? Do you love me? Do you love? They are questions for us too. Jesus chooses the most unlikely.

And he commissioned Peter to 'feed my lambs', to 'look after my sheep' and to 'feed my sheep.' The abundance of the fishing catch is replaced by being a shepherd, to go into the wilderness where there are wolves and thieves that want to kill and steal. That's where he must live in the midst of hardship and temptation.

Jesus chooses the unlikely and the unlikely one says to the elders and to us, the unlikely ones of today who all have people we shepherd in life,  Be the shepherds of the flock of God that is entrusted to you: watch over it, not simply as a duty but gladly, because God wants it; not for sordid money, but because you are eager to do it. Never be a dictator over any group that is put in your charge, but be an example that the whole flock can follow. When the chief shepherd appears, you will be given the crown of unfading glory.

Be a good shepherd to others. 

In our age we have so many who have criticised the various Popes entrusted to lead the Church. They think they know better, better even than the Pope. But I think we have had incredible Popes in our time. Unlikely in their own way but it has been incredible how the Lord has worked through them. I have had two Popes ask me to pray for them...

So we pray...

St Peter, pray for our Pope

Pray for us on te ara o te tūmanako - the way of hope

 

The tomb of St Peter

Saint Pope John Paul II

St Pope John XXIII

The from the outside unassuming Cistene Chapel - we visited it later - strictly no photos inside

St Peter’s words for the way of hope

Blessed be the God and Father of our Lord Jesus Christ! By his great mercy he has given us a new birth into a living hope through the resurrection of Jesus Christ from the dead. 1 Peter 1:3

In this you rejoice, even if now for a little while you have had to suffer various trials, so that the genuineness of your faith... may be found to result in praise and glory and honour when Jesus Christ is revealed. 1 Peter 1:6-7

Cast all your anxiety on him, because he cares for you. 1 Peter 5:7

Christ is the living stone, rejected by people but chosen by God and precious to him; set yourselves close to him so that you too, the holy priesthood that offers the spiritual sacrifices which Jesus Christ has made acceptable to God, may be living stones making a spiritual house... For you are a chosen race, a royal priesthood, a consecrated nation, a people set apart to the praises of God who called you out of the darkness into his wonderful light.  Once you were not a people at all and now you are the People of God; once you were outside the mercy and now you have been given mercy. 1 Peter 2:4-5, 9-10

Following the Mass we visited the Vatican Museums... the crowds were unbelievable! Exhausted pilgrims were happy to get back to our accommodation for a final meal and farewells.